The Gothic of Arianne Phillips
Arianne Phillips is one of the most versatile and respected costume designers in contemporary cinema, known for her innovative work that spans various film genres, from music to theater and film. Her career has been marked by collaborations with some of Hollywood’s most acclaimed directors, and her ability to create costumes that not only dress characters but define them has made her contributions to cinema unforgettable. Although Arianne Phillips is best known for her work in dramatic, musical, and historical films, she has also had significant incursions into the horror genre, where she has been able to express her talent in unique and innovative ways.
The Early Years and the Evolution Toward Film
Arianne Phillips began her career in the fashion world, working as a stylist for some of the biggest music stars, including Madonna. This experience in the fashion and music industries profoundly influenced her approach to costume design, allowing her to develop a strong sense of aesthetics and a keen attention to detail. Phillips’ transition to cinema was natural, as her work has always been characterized by powerful visual storytelling capable of communicating the character and evolution of the characters through clothing.
The Crow (1994): A Cult of Gothic Horror
One of Arianne Phillips’ early significant contributions to the horror genre was her work as a costume designer for The Crow (1994), directed by Alex Proyas. The film, which became a cult classic, is known for its dark and gothic atmosphere, redefining the concept of revenge and tragic romanticism in horror cinema.
The main character, Eric Draven (played by Brandon Lee), returns from the afterlife to avenge his own death and that of his fiancée. Draven’s costume, featuring a black leather trench coat, tight pants, and kabuki-inspired white and black makeup, has become iconic. Phillips created a look that not only reflects the character’s pain and determination but also became a visual symbol of rebellion and anguish. The contrast between Eric’s white face and his black clothing underscores the character’s duality, torn between the world of the living and the dead, an element that has contributed to making The Crow an unforgettable film in the gothic horror landscape.
Collaboration with Matthew Vaughn: Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014) and Horror in Spy Sauce
While Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014) is not horror in the traditional sense, Arianne Phillips’ collaboration with director Matthew Vaughn gave rise to a film that blends various genres, including elements of thriller and horror. The film features stylized violence and a series of scenes that, while often laden with dark humor, contain a level of tension and rawness that evokes the horror genre.
The costumes created by Phillips for Kingsman are sophisticated, elegant, and perfectly aligned with the spy-thriller atmosphere. It is interesting to note how the costume designer managed to balance the clean and formal aesthetics of the protagonists with the darker and unsettling elements of the plot. Characters such as villain Richmond Valentine (played by Samuel L. Jackson) and his assistant Gazelle (played by Sofia Boutella) are dressed in ways that reflect their distorted and perverse nature, with details emphasizing their intrinsic wickedness. This play of contrasts and symbolism is a hallmark of Phillips’ work, which infuses a sense of menace even in the most seemingly glamorous contexts.
Nocturnal Animals (2016): The Aesthetics of Unease
One of Arianne Phillips’ most acclaimed works is Nocturnal Animals (2016), directed by Tom Ford. Although it is not a traditional horror film, Nocturnal Animals is a psychological thriller filled with tension, anguish, and deeply disturbing moments of terror.
The film tells two intertwined stories: that of protagonist Susan Morrow (played by Amy Adams), an LA gallerist who receives the manuscript of a novel written by her ex-husband, and the plot of the novel itself, a haunting tale of violence and revenge. Phillips created two visually distinct worlds through costumes: Susan’s elegant and cold world, dominated by dark colors and refined fabrics, and the brutal and arid world of the novel’s story, characterized by more casual, worn, and realistic clothing.
Susan’s costume, in particular, plays a key role in communicating her emotional alienation and sense of inner emptiness. The use of structured but cold garments reflects her seemingly perfect yet deeply unsatisfying life. In contrast, the costumes of the characters in the novel’s story evoke a rawness and realism that heighten the sense of danger and unease. Nocturnal Animals is a film that explores the deepest fears and consequences of violence, and Phillips’ costumes significantly contribute to building this oppressive and anxious atmosphere.
Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019): The Tribute to ’60s Horror
Another major project for Arianne Phillips was Once Upon a Time in Hollywood (2019), directed by Quentin Tarantino. The film, which pays tribute to ’60s Hollywood, includes elements of horror, particularly in its depiction of the infamous Manson family and the events leading to Sharon Tate’s murder.
Phillips worked to faithfully recreate the aesthetic of the ’60s, but she also used costumes to explore the dark side of that era. The costumes of the Manson family members, in particular, are simple and inspired by the era’s hippie clothing but convey a sense of unease and disorder, reflecting the chaotic and dangerous nature of these characters. Although Tarantino’s film is largely a love letter to old Hollywood, Phillips captured the tension and terror lurking beneath the shiny surface of that world.
The Impact of Arianne Phillips on Horror Cinema
Although Arianne Phillips is not exclusively a costume designer for horror films, her work in this genre and related genres has had a significant impact. Her ability to use costume to explore character psychology, create atmospheres, and contribute to visual storytelling has profoundly enriched the films she has worked on. Phillips manages to blend fashion and storytelling in a way that not only dresses characters but brings entire worlds to life.
Her collaboration on films like The Crow and Nocturnal Animals demonstrates her versatility and talent in interpreting the darker side of humanity. Even in contexts not strictly horror, Phillips infuses her costumes with a sense of tension and unease that elevates the film and makes it a memorable visual experience.
In conclusion, Arianne Phillips is one of the most influential costume designers in modern cinema, and her work in the horror genre, while perhaps less known than other projects, has been fundamental in creating some of the most iconic and memorable images in cinema. Her ability to balance aesthetics and storytelling, combined with a strong sense of character psychology, has made her a key figure in contemporary cinema.
Don’t miss reading the articles about other costume designers who helped horror cinema scare us… they not only improved the films they worked on but also elevated the horror genre to new artistic heights. Their costumes are not just clothes but narrative tools that amplify suspense, express complex themes, and enrich the viewer’s visual experience.
